Scallops, Tangerine Tango, Lace!

I hit them all! Check it out...

Multiple pieces went into this shirt, but I love the end results so much!

First, I love Nanette Lepore's lace over orange theme she has going on.


The above image is her Pep Rally Dress. I really like how the lace tones down the orange.

Second, I had a Groupon for Mood Fabrics burning a hole in my e-mail that I decided to spend on the lace I really liked (way too expensive otherwise) as well as some sateen for some Sallie Oh inspired Clovers.

Third, when I got the lace I knew I had to make use of the scalloped edges.

So, I went to a pattern I really like with simple lines, Simplicity 2599. I skipped the embellishments, but I really like the fit of the pattern over all.

I lined the shirt with a bright orange Voile, but left the sleeves as just lace.

I also hemmed the lining a couple inches shorter than the lace to help showcase the scalloped edges.

I did the same on the front and the back.

Now if you are interested I took some construction photos. There may be a better way to make this, but this is what I came up with.

I cut out the front and back pattern pieces on my orange fabric first. I skipped the center back seam and just cut the back on the fold. It slips over my head just fine.

Then, under the judgy watchful eye of my assistant. I cut my back piece out of the fabric lining it up with the scallops showing out the bottom. I then cut the front piece out of my lace off the other side of my fabric to use the scallop edge. I lined up the front and back pieces using the waist notches to be sure the hems would line up on the shirt. Be sure to pay attention that you are using the right side of the lace on all of the pieces.

For the sleeves I just matched the center dot at the top with a center of a scallop. I repeated that on both sleeves.

I hemmed the Voile being sure to make sure it was the same hem measurement on both the front and back pieces. I  then sewed the voile and lace right sides together at the neck line only.

I under stitched the seam allowance to the lining and trimmed the excess.

I then flipped the piece right sides out.

Here is how the neckline looks on. I think it is fairly clean. Lining this way also eliminated the neck facings.

I then basted all the way around across the shoulder lines, down the arm hole and to the bottom and treated both the lace and voile as one piece of fabric and constructed it from here starting with shoulder seams, side seams then sleeves. Idid not baste the two fabrics across the bottom. It is just loose. All the hemming was done!

Be sure when sewing the shoulder seams that those inside seams line up well, otherwise they will be crooked looking.

I used this method because I did not want the lace darts to be visible. This was the dart pieces were encapsulated within the voile.

The inside is decent looking. I zig zagged the edges because I feel like I have more control with it when sewing layers. I was afraid if I serged the edges I would cut something I didn't want to. Isn't that orange, um, orange? I really like the effect the lace has on it.

I love it! And overall it only took about three hours. I can't wait to wear it some more. I think this lace overlay would make a cute simple dress too. 

A sew along announcement and fabric binge confessions

I have exciting news! I am a new contributor to the Humble Sewing Center Blog and will be hosting a sew along using Butterick 4461, my favorite A-Line skirt with zipper. Check it out!

Now, the confessions begin.

I couldn't walk. Mr. Thinks He Can lost my debit card. Life was really hard. Warning: The following may be hard for people with will power to see. The following is based on a true story and is what happens when I am left alone with the internet and nothing else for days on end.

One of my fabrics for the skirt sew along.

A chiffon for another go at Taffy.

A cheetah print rayon. I know. What the heck? I actually really dig it. It is such a small print. I may make a simple tank dress out of it. That's my good foot to help you get an idea of scale. LOL, still can't walk.

This is one yard of a weird knit that is kind of thick. It is kind of fuzzy on one side and kind of slick on the other side. I'm sure it is for something beside a skirt, but too bad.

This is another knit that will be a wrap dress. I love it!

This is a navy charmeuse I am thinking of making a Ruby slip with. I have never worked with charmeuse, but it is really lovely.

Tangerine Tango polka dot rayon! That's my assistant's foot up there for scale. I see a nice button down out of this.

This is a navy linen blend I am hoping to make the new Cynthia Rowley shirt I am drooling over out of.

French seams the Stacie way: Tutorial

I have been working on the French seams in my Peony, and have developed a few methods that have helped me I thought I would share. I have been doing French seams on garments on and off for awhile, but this project has really made me look at ways to help myself out.

First of all French seams are seams you sew in which the raw edges are encased within the seam allowance. Very unnecessary, but they look nice and are pretty darn strong. Above is the inside of the French seam we are about to make.

Place your fabrics wrong sides together. Yes, it goes against everything you believe in, but trust me. "Right sides together," is your chant when you are doing French seams.

Next I get out my 1/4" presser foot. That's right, it is used for more than my boring quilt posts!

Mathlete Moment: Remember 1/4 inch is also equivalent to 2/8 inch. 

When using a 1/4 inch presser foot you just follow the outside edge of the presser foot. Just stitch right down the seam.

Press the seam open.

Now fold it so it is right sides together. I usually like to press the seam again here to make sure it is lined up and not poofy.

Here is my seam allowance magnet. I use it for all garments. I get distracted and tend to start following the foot instead of the usual 5/8" seam allowance. This sticks to my machine and my fabric can follow it instead of the tiny markings that come on the machine.

I lined up my magnet to the 3/8" mark on my machine.

Here you just line up the fabric with the magnet and stitch.

Mathlete Moment: Your first seam was 2/8 inch, your second seam was 3/8 inch.


2/8 + 3/8 = 5/8


We made a 5/8 inch seam allowance!

Press your seam to the side.

Now look at what you did! Your seam is perfect from the outside and pretty on the inside! That 1/4" foot and magnet totally help you be more accurate.

As for the Peony, I'm working on it. I have foot surgery this afternoon and can't concentrate very well. I made this tutorial then promptly went and sewed my French seams right sides together. Posts may slow down a bit around here while I recover, but I'll be back!

Kitchen mat tutorial

I made a quilt that I just lost the love for. It was too bright and crazy to be a quilt. It sat as blocks for months until I had a sewing date with my friend Holly Saturday. She said to make it a kitchen or bathroom mat. Thanks, genius!

I googled 'kitchen mat tutorial' and came up with my own method based on what I found.

1. Place your fabric or top layer right sides together with an old beach towel. Wait, why a towel? I spill stuff sometimes and wipe it up with my rug. You know you do it too. It's about absorbency.

2. Sew around the edges, I went with a 3/4" seam allowance because my two fabrics didn't match up perfectly. Leave about a 6' opening to turn it right sides out.

3. Turn it right side out and iron it the way you would like it to lay. I also trimmed the corners because they got pretty thick. I then top stitched about an inch in which helped secure the 6" opening as well as making the fabric lay properly and not shift..

Before

After

I had a white clearance rug in there and it was filthy. My new one should hide dirt, absorb liquids and is totally washable. Love it! It's not perfect, but it was made to be spilled on. I may use my scraps and left over blocks to do some matching hand towels and pot holders.

Check out my new sewing table. It doesn't bounce like my plastic one, and it was cheap on Craig's list!

Lined tote bag tutorial

I've been sitting in this one because I gave it as a Christmas present, but remember the tote bag I made for my Secret Santa?

I finally put together a tutorial for that.

You need:
1/2 yard of lining material
1/2 yard of outer material
8 inches of strap fabric cut into 4 inch strips.

Cut your half yards of fabric along the fold so you have two pieces of each fabric the same size.

Sew the outer fabric together right sides together on three sides leaving what you would like to be the top open. Repeat with the lining fabric. I used a 5/8 inch seam, but it doesn't matter from what I can tell.

Take your outer fabric and on the bottom corners you will line up the bottom and side seam while pulling out the fabric along the new fold to form a V coming from the corner where the bottom and the side meet.

I measured 2 inches from the stitched corner and made a mark.

Draw (or eyeball) a straight line and follow it with a straight stitch. I reverse at the start and end of this stitch to reinforce it.

Cut off the excess material and your new bag bottom will look like the one above. Repeat on the bottom corners of the lining material as well.

Now for the straps. Iron your 4 inch strip in half with right sides facing out.

Unfold your strap.

Now, fold and press both sides in to meet that seem you just made down the middle.

Now fold that piece in half and press. (See, you made giant bias tape.)

Sew a straight stitch down the open side of the strap. I sew one up the other side as well because I like the way it looks.

See, this is what you wind up with. Repeat it with the other strip, so you have two straps. You may want to trim some off each end to adjust the strap to the length you like.

Now, place the lining and out fabric right sides together with the straps sandwiched between the two. Make sure they line up on both sides. Sew along the top and leave about a four inch opening.

Pull the fabrics and handles out that opening you left in the top. (It doesn't have to be left in the top, but it was easiest for me.)

This is what you should be seeing. The right sides of your fabrics and the handles.

Push your lining down into the bag, so the handles are at the top, making it resemble an almost completed bag.

I like to press the top seam here to make it look crisp as well as ensure I catch the opening I leave when I top stitch.

I used a decorative top stitch all around the top of the bag. This closes the opening and helps reinforce the handles.

Your bag is done, washable and reversible!

Nice work.

The bottom is so fancy and the bag holds more because of the stitches you made along the bottom corners. Please share a picture if you make one of your own!

Just for kicks, how cute is this sewing apron Holly made me for Christmas? Love it!